It’s crunch time
Here’s a little secret. One of the most popular tapa in Spanish cooking – croquetas – is actually French. The name comes from the French verb croquer – to crunch – and is thought to have originated in France during the 17th century when chefs were experimenting by frying various fillings coated in breadcrumbs.
Croquetas de Pollo at Spanish Restaurant in Mayfair
The French may have started it, but the Spanish will tell you they perfected it – mostly by ditching the ubiquitous mashed potato, and replacing it with a thick set béchamel sauce made from butter flour and milk. (And, yes, we do know that béchamel is a French sauce named in honour of Louis de Béchameli, chief steward to Louis XIV).
At El Pirata in Mayfair’s Down Street, croquetas de jamón Ibérico and the equally popular croquetas de pollo are made fresh every day with fillings of ham and chicken respectively. But in Spain you might also find croquetas with salt cod, cheese or a vegetarian version with mushrooms, spinach or roasted peppers. In Rioja, croquetas often feature goat cheese and roasted peppers, in Navarra they might include white asparagus ias a filling.
Casa Julio in Spain’s capital city, Madrid, and Bodega 1900 (owned by Albert Adriá, brother of the famous Ferran) are famous for their delicate and tasty croquetas, but the truth is that you can find variations of croquettes (to use the English word) all over the world. And, whisper it, chefs often make croquettes as a way of using up leftovers.
